AVANT GARDENER
Last week, I wrote about Raffy Tesoro of Bio-Genetics Agriventures, Inc. and Jason Drilon’s popup at James & Daughters in Pasig which featured traditional Tagalog food that Tesoro grew up with, most, if not all of it sourced locally. The popup was a hit, with both days selling out. This week, we continue our conversation with Tesoro, focusing on the importance of keeping traditional ingredients and cooking methods alive and the possible future of Philippine agriculture.
Food isn’t something we consume to keep functioning. It can be a cultural marker.
A specific area can shape what food is grown and how it is prepared and consumed.
“Our very identity as a people is entwined in our food, music, fabric, and other cultural expressions. Food is an especially important cultural vehicle as it is a necessary experience for all on a daily basis. We are literally what we eat. If we aren’t consuming more of our own culture, then we will alienate ourselves from it. I enjoy most cuisines as anyone else would, but I also know our own,” Tesoro said.
“Most young Filipinos now don’t know many of the fruits we had back then, like makopa, rattan, or duhat. Many are hesitant to try hito, pinikpikan, or dinakdakan because it looks alien to them…. This is a horrific bleed that needs to stop before we completely lose ourselves as a people.
“As shallow as it seems, these are symptoms of a deeper cultural rot and explains why we have no pride as a people and as a nation. Granted, our cultural identity is complex and regional, but from personal experience, I have learned to accept all the facets of what makes us Filipino, and I will say that the first and foremost teacher is the food.”
He offers tips for folks who want to explore unfamiliar local ingredients.
“First, check out the local markets and not just the supermarkets. There is a wealth of ingredients that can only be found in palengkes and talipapas.
“Second, try making more local/regional/heritage dishes. The experience of creating it is satisfying, educational, and fulfilling. It will also encourage suppliers to provide local ingredients because there is a demand for them.
“Third, use local/traditional implements as much as possible. Not only is this helpful in maintaining the identity of the dish, but it also helps entire communities.
“Buy local packaging and other implements. Using bayongs woven from straw is not only ecologically sound, but it brings work to communities, and markets will stock it regularly. The farmer is not the only breadwinner, and by buying the pottery, weaving, woodwork, and more, you are helping everyone else in their community while encouraging local self-sufficiency and growth.
“Many of my farmers’ wives and daughters are weavers; their brothers or uncles are potters, blacksmiths, and woodworkers. Their neighbors are drivers, stevedores, and conductors. Consuming local food promotes local products, which strengthens our economy. It raises the quality of life of fellow Filipinos across all walks of life. It engenders pride in our country and our culture. The simple act of buying our own culture creates profound results,” Tesoro said.
Fostering a consumer base that regularly consumes local ingredients can also help our food security. “There are some efforts that are trying to address our food security issues, but without market participation, it is an uphill battle,” Tesoro said.
“Again, buying local goods instead of imported ones is a key play. Promoting and using our cultural recipes is also extremely important. Our consumption has shifted dramatically to imported goods more than local production. Local production has also shifted to cater to these changed tastes. We consume Western-style food much more now, so there is an escalating demand for bell peppers, potatoes, and other introduced crops. By creating demand for endemic crops, we are ensuring our food security while maintaining our culture.
“Being too dependent on global staples also puts us at risk of experiencing the same crop failures that a global pandemic or climate change would generate on our food supplies…. [For example], bird flu and swine flu have decimated flocks of chicken and herds of pigs all over the globe in the past five years. This is reflected in the price of eggs, pork, and poultry. If we retained our diversity such as consuming more local seafood or utilizing other protein sources such as snails and shellfish, then we would have other options for our protein requirements while also reducing the pressure on traditional protein supplies.”
People are always looking for the next new thing. What if instead of looking internationally, we found it on our very own shores? As Tesoro said, “Expanding our palates, exploring our cuisine and culture may ultimately help create the very diversity we need to survive and thrive.”
